To finish off the "Tips for 3D Printing" series, the following article focuses on tips after 3D printing, including how to separate the part from the base and cleaning the extruder after using materials that contain fibers, which are prone to generate jams, such as the PLA-Carbon Fiber.
1. Separate the part from the base
When a 3D print finishes, a period of time (5-10 minutes) must be allowed before separating the part from the base and manipulating it so that it cools down sufficiently and is below the softening temperature. If this is not met, the workpiece will be deformed and will lose some finishing quality. After the time indicated before, the piece can be separated, helping, if possible, by a spatula. If a spatula is not available, wait until the base is at room temperature or use a rudimentary quick-cooling technique, such as inserting the base into a refrigerator or a freezer or pouring the base through the base side opposite the piece with cold water until you hear a creak, indicating that the piece has already partially detached the base and can already be separated by hand.
When materials sensitive to sudden temperature changes (ABS or Nylons), are used, a gradual decrease of the temperature of the base should be made after the 3D printing is finished to avoid deformations in the part. This process can be done with programs like the Simplify3D, programming the base temperature decrease in intervals of 5 ºC until reaching the ambient temperature.

Image 1: Spatula BuildTak

Image 2: Smart Clean cleaning filament
2. Cleaning the extruder
After using abrasive materials that contain fibers and are prone to jamming, such as PLA-Carbon Fiber or Nylon-Carbon Fiber CF15, the user should clean the inside of the extruder so that they don't solidify the debris these filaments and no future jams. For this the Smart Clean cleaneing filament can be used, a material that is used at 10 °C more than the temperature of the filament of the last 3D impression, for a little more than 1 meter or until the filament leaves the nozzle free of debris from the material of the previous 3D impression. This operation prevents jams from occurring and increases the life of the extruder.
3. Cleaning the base
Many 3D printers have a glass base or other type of base where spray is sprayed (3DLac o DimaFix) that helps the part's adhesion during several impressions. After several uses the spray should be sprayed again, but not before washing the base with water (better cold) and with soap. Simply applying a little soap on the base, a little water and rubbing with the hand, is more than enough to clean the base. Finally, dry it with paper and check that there are no traces of spray on the base.
4. Check the dimensions and finish of the piece
After removing the part from the printer base, an overall check of the dimensions and finish should be performed to ensure that the 3D printer is operating correctly. With a gauge one must measure the external dimensions of the piece and the internal gaps if any, if these are not correct the calibration of the 3D printer, mainly the base and the steps of the motors must be checked. If the surface finish is not good, it is probably the fault that the printing temperature being used is not correct or that the extruder (or nozzle) is dirty or in poor condition.

Image 3: Theoretical diameter measurement

Imagen 4: Actual diameter measurement
5. Surface finishing
When making parts that need a great surface finish, some of the finishing techniques, such as applying acetone or acetone vapor (valid only for parts made of ABS) or applying some finishing product such as epoxy resin coating (XTC) which, in addition, allow to sanding or to paint a posteriori and thus to obtain a finish practically smooth so that the layers in the piece are not appreciated.
Vídeo 1: ASurface finishing with XTC
This article concludes the series of "Tips for 3D printing", which has exposed the most common problems before, during and after 3D printing FDM/FFF and explained the main solutions to avoid or solve them.
gracias
https://threedeefilaments.ca/black-pla-3d-filament
Es posible que el filamento de nylon que estás utilizando tenga algo de humedad. Te aconsejaríamos utilizar una secadora de filamentos para garantizar el mantenimiento de sus propiedades.
En este post encontrarás información de utilidad para tu problema: ¿Qué es la retracción en impresión 3D? Definición y ajustes
Me paso con la primera impresión el chanchito de 4 hrs, se hizo en 6.
Slds
¿Al iniciar trabajo ya tienes la impresora en pre-heat? Por otro lado, es posible que tengas desviaciones en el software de generación e gcode (laminado-slicing) con respecto a los límites reales de la impesora 3D (velocidades y aceleraciones). Revisa estos puntos y harás más precisas las simulaciones y los tiempos.
Si no consigues despegar fácilmente la balsa es porque la distancia entre la pieza y la balsa es demasiado pequeña. Prueba a aumentar el valor de "cámara de aire de la balsa" hasta el 175% del valor de altura de capa que estés usando.
Como podria evitar las lineas horizontales en las piezas, he calibrado y ajustado todo.
Podria ser problema de flow ??
Muchas gracias
Saludos
Actualmente nos es imposible de separar de manera fácil. Nuestra impresora es Zortrax M200.
Gracias,
Gracias
Edwin Richardson | 3dwholesale.com