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    [id_post] => 78
    [meta_title] => Common problems and solutions in 3D printing
    [meta_description] => When using 3D printers (FFF / FDM), problems and unforeseen events (especially in non-professional 3D printers) may occur when printing the models that the user needs. This causes nuisance, delays and other inconveniences that the user of the 3D printer does not want to happen. Thus, this article proceeds to give a series of tips to solve these typical problems.
    [short_description] => When using 3D printers (FFF / FDM), problems and unforeseen events (especially in non-professional 3D printers) may occur when printing the models that the user needs. This causes nuisance, delays and other inconveniences that the user of the 3D printer does not want to happen. Thus, this article proceeds to give a series of tips to solve these typical problems.
    [meta_keyword] => 
    [content] => 

Failed piece

In the use of 3D printers (FFF/FDM), problems and unforeseen events (especially in non-professional 3D printers) can appear when printing the models that the user needs. This causes inconvenience, delays and other inconveniences that the user of the 3D printer never wants to happen to him. This article then provides a series of advice on how to solve these typical problems.

Absence of filament at the beginning of printing

When printing begins, it may be the case that no amount of filament is released. This may be due to:

Base height very close to the nozzle

This is solved by making a leveling of the base.

Extruder excessive temperature

Due to waiting at the beginning of printing, it may be the case that the material that is at the end of HotEnd is deposited in the base due to the effect of gravity itself, causing an absence of material at the time of printing.

Bad regulation of extruder tension

If the tensioner is very loose, it can happen that the filament does not move through the extruder, however, if it is very tight, it will mark the filament causing poor surface quality of poor quality.

Clogged extruder

This problem is one of the worst that can happen to a 3D printer. When this happens, the first step is to overheat the temperature in about 10 - 20 °C in reference to the last material used and introduce a cleaning filament (Smart Clean cleaning filament) until it comes out clean and continuous.

A good trick is to activate the option of the contour line around the piece (skirt) and thus ensure the output of material from the extruder before starting the printing of the piece itself.

Absence of filament at beginning of printing

Image 1: Absence of filament at the beginning of printing. Source: Simplify3D

Problems with the first layer

Having solved the problem of the lack of filament at the beginning of printing, it may happen that the first printed layer does not adhere to the base. This may be due to:

Too much height between the extruder and the base

This problem is observed by visually checking this distance, when the 3D printer is making the first layer.

Inadequate base temperature

Certain types of filaments need the base to have a temperature higher than that of the environment, for example ABS. If this parameter is not met, surely this problem appears. Apart from the temperature, there are materials that require an adhesive for the base (DimaFix or Magigoo). Before applying these adhesives it is advisable to wash the base well.

Excessive printing speed

For most 3D printers a first layer speed of 25 mm/s is recommended. If this speed is significantly exceeded, the risk that the first layer does not adhere to the base is very high.

Problems with the first layer

Image 2: Problems with the first layer. Source: Simplify3D

Threads surrounding the piece(s)

It is common to see in 3D prints threads of material surrounding the piece or between the pieces that are being made simultaneously. This error is usually due to parameters linked to the retraction of the extruder:

Insufficient retraction distance

This error is very common in "bowden" systems, where there is a long distance between the extruder engine and the Hotend. This distance varies with the type of material, being 8 mm a good measure to start and increase if the problem persists.

Retraction speed

For this parameter, the size of the piece and the distance between pieces must be considered. If the part or distance is small, more speed is needed to give the extruder motor time to make the filament recoil path. If the speed is excessive, bubbles will be created inside the HotEnd and the extruder pulley will mark the filament a lot.

Threads surrounding the piece

Image 3: Threads surrounding the piece. Source: Simplify3D

Black dots (charred) on the printed piece

When this printing error is visible, it is because there were filament remains on the outside of the nozzle. These depositions become viscous with the temperature and with the movement of the extruder they are transferred until arriving at the piece that is being printed. These depositions usually occur at the beginning of printing, at the time that the extruder performs in the "home" of the z axis, remains that hang from the nozzle are placed on the outside of it. To avoid the problem, at the beginning of the printing it is necessary to check that this does not happen, and in case it happens, remove the filament from the nozzle with tweezers.

Pieces half done

This problem is one of the worst due to the delay that occurs in the time of printing a piece, and, because it occurs for reasons that are easy to correct. Before starting an impression, ensure that the amount of filament available is sufficient, weighing the filament. A practical tip (small or medium pieces) to approximate the available filament length is to measure the diameter of the rolled filament, calculate its perimeter and multiply it by the number of turns in the coil. Another reason may be that an overlap of the filament occurs, preventing the material from entering the pulley of the extruder motor. Finally, if the tensioner of the extruder pulley does not have enough tightening, the filament will not advance through it, stopping the exit of material through the nozzle.

Pieces half done

Image 4: Half-made pieces. Source: Simplify3D

Separation between layers

3D FDM printing works by building objects layer by layer until the desired shape is obtained. If the adjacent layers do not join correctly, the final piece can be broken by joining the layers. This problem may be due to two reasons:

Excessive layer height

During 3D printing of a part, it must be ensured that each layer that is being manufactured presses on the lower layer sufficiently so that the two layers are joined in a resistant way. It can be taken as a general rule that the layer height cannot be more than 80 % of the nozzle outlet diameter. For example, when using a 0.4 mm nozzle, the layer height should not be greater than 0.32 mm. If a separation between layers is detected during printing, it is recommended to reduce the layer height.

Extrusion temperature too low

Once the layer height is verified to be correct, but the separation between layers persists, the problem is in the extrusion temperature. If the temperature reached by the filament is not hot enough, the adhesion with the lower layer will be bad, which will cause it to easily break the piece. For example, thel PLA can be printed at 180 °C but when a user makes parts with high speeds (60 mm/s), the extrusion temperature is not enough for the layers to adhere strongly, so the temperature must be increased at intervals of 10 °C until a good connection between layers is achieved.

Layer separation

Image 5: Separation between layers. Source: Simplify3D

Lack of material between the outer layers and the filling (overlap)

This symptom is easily determined, since you only have to observe the piece with determination a few seconds and see the separation between the outer layers and the filling. To solve it, you must increase the percentage of "overlap", which is usually 15 %, raise it to 20 % or 25 % if you have this problem.

Overlap

Image 6: Overlap. Source: Simplify3D

Warping

It is called "warping" to buckling the layers of a piece that are in contact with the base. This buckling is common in materials such as ABS, materials with high extrusion temperatures and which tend to deform as they cool. To avoid this problem, we usually resort to:

Hot print base

Currently most 3D FDM printers have a hot base for printing. For materials sensitive to temperature changes, such as ABS, using a base temperature of 100 - 120 ºC is key to maintaining dimensional stability.

Enclosed

When a user wishes to make parts in ABS of medium or large size, using only a hot base is not enough to prevent warping. In this case the 3D printer must have an enclosed and in case you need to make large volume parts, a heated environment is recommended.

Warping
Image 7: Warping. Source: Simplify3D

Gaps between the passes of the last layer

When a poor finish of the upper layer is observed, with an aspect that conveys a feeling of lack of material it may be due to a slightly dense inner filling, with holes that are too large and difficult to cover. Another factor that produces this is an insufficient number of layers after filling, to completely cover the surface. This error may also appear due to insufficient filament flow, especially in large pieces, where continuous passes are large. To check if there is a problem of low flow, a check of external measurements is made, if these are smaller, the flow must be increased from 5 % to 5 % until the part has the design measure.

Gaps between the passes of the last layer

Image 8: Gaps between the passes of the last layer. Source: Simplify3D

Conclusion

With everything explained above, users of a 3D FDM printer should know how to solve most of the problems that can occur in the day to day of 3D printing.

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  • Common problems and solutions in 3D printing

    Common problems and solutions in 3D printing

    Failed piece

    In the use of 3D printers (FFF/FDM), problems and unforeseen events (especially in non-professional 3D printers) can appear when printing the models that the user needs. This causes inconvenience, delays and other inconveniences that the user of the 3D printer never wants to happen to him. This article then provides a series of advice on how to solve these typical problems.

    Absence of filament at the beginning of printing

    When printing begins, it may be the case that no amount of filament is released. This may be due to:

    Base height very close to the nozzle

    This is solved by making a leveling of the base.

    Extruder excessive temperature

    Due to waiting at the beginning of printing, it may be the case that the material that is at the end of HotEnd is deposited in the base due to the effect of gravity itself, causing an absence of material at the time of printing.

    Bad regulation of extruder tension

    If the tensioner is very loose, it can happen that the filament does not move through the extruder, however, if it is very tight, it will mark the filament causing poor surface quality of poor quality.

    Clogged extruder

    This problem is one of the worst that can happen to a 3D printer. When this happens, the first step is to overheat the temperature in about 10 - 20 °C in reference to the last material used and introduce a cleaning filament (Smart Clean cleaning filament) until it comes out clean and continuous.

    A good trick is to activate the option of the contour line around the piece (skirt) and thus ensure the output of material from the extruder before starting the printing of the piece itself.

    Absence of filament at beginning of printing

    Image 1: Absence of filament at the beginning of printing. Source: Simplify3D

    Problems with the first layer

    Having solved the problem of the lack of filament at the beginning of printing, it may happen that the first printed layer does not adhere to the base. This may be due to:

    Too much height between the extruder and the base

    This problem is observed by visually checking this distance, when the 3D printer is making the first layer.

    Inadequate base temperature

    Certain types of filaments need the base to have a temperature higher than that of the environment, for example ABS. If this parameter is not met, surely this problem appears. Apart from the temperature, there are materials that require an adhesive for the base (DimaFix or Magigoo). Before applying these adhesives it is advisable to wash the base well.

    Excessive printing speed

    For most 3D printers a first layer speed of 25 mm/s is recommended. If this speed is significantly exceeded, the risk that the first layer does not adhere to the base is very high.

    Problems with the first layer

    Image 2: Problems with the first layer. Source: Simplify3D

    Threads surrounding the piece(s)

    It is common to see in 3D prints threads of material surrounding the piece or between the pieces that are being made simultaneously. This error is usually due to parameters linked to the retraction of the extruder:

    Insufficient retraction distance

    This error is very common in "bowden" systems, where there is a long distance between the extruder engine and the Hotend. This distance varies with the type of material, being 8 mm a good measure to start and increase if the problem persists.

    Retraction speed

    For this parameter, the size of the piece and the distance between pieces must be considered. If the part or distance is small, more speed is needed to give the extruder motor time to make the filament recoil path. If the speed is excessive, bubbles will be created inside the HotEnd and the extruder pulley will mark the filament a lot.

    Threads surrounding the piece

    Image 3: Threads surrounding the piece. Source: Simplify3D

    Black dots (charred) on the printed piece

    When this printing error is visible, it is because there were filament remains on the outside of the nozzle. These depositions become viscous with the temperature and with the movement of the extruder they are transferred until arriving at the piece that is being printed. These depositions usually occur at the beginning of printing, at the time that the extruder performs in the "home" of the z axis, remains that hang from the nozzle are placed on the outside of it. To avoid the problem, at the beginning of the printing it is necessary to check that this does not happen, and in case it happens, remove the filament from the nozzle with tweezers.

    Pieces half done

    This problem is one of the worst due to the delay that occurs in the time of printing a piece, and, because it occurs for reasons that are easy to correct. Before starting an impression, ensure that the amount of filament available is sufficient, weighing the filament. A practical tip (small or medium pieces) to approximate the available filament length is to measure the diameter of the rolled filament, calculate its perimeter and multiply it by the number of turns in the coil. Another reason may be that an overlap of the filament occurs, preventing the material from entering the pulley of the extruder motor. Finally, if the tensioner of the extruder pulley does not have enough tightening, the filament will not advance through it, stopping the exit of material through the nozzle.

    Pieces half done

    Image 4: Half-made pieces. Source: Simplify3D

    Separation between layers

    3D FDM printing works by building objects layer by layer until the desired shape is obtained. If the adjacent layers do not join correctly, the final piece can be broken by joining the layers. This problem may be due to two reasons:

    Excessive layer height

    During 3D printing of a part, it must be ensured that each layer that is being manufactured presses on the lower layer sufficiently so that the two layers are joined in a resistant way. It can be taken as a general rule that the layer height cannot be more than 80 % of the nozzle outlet diameter. For example, when using a 0.4 mm nozzle, the layer height should not be greater than 0.32 mm. If a separation between layers is detected during printing, it is recommended to reduce the layer height.

    Extrusion temperature too low

    Once the layer height is verified to be correct, but the separation between layers persists, the problem is in the extrusion temperature. If the temperature reached by the filament is not hot enough, the adhesion with the lower layer will be bad, which will cause it to easily break the piece. For example, thel PLA can be printed at 180 °C but when a user makes parts with high speeds (60 mm/s), the extrusion temperature is not enough for the layers to adhere strongly, so the temperature must be increased at intervals of 10 °C until a good connection between layers is achieved.

    Layer separation

    Image 5: Separation between layers. Source: Simplify3D

    Lack of material between the outer layers and the filling (overlap)

    This symptom is easily determined, since you only have to observe the piece with determination a few seconds and see the separation between the outer layers and the filling. To solve it, you must increase the percentage of "overlap", which is usually 15 %, raise it to 20 % or 25 % if you have this problem.

    Overlap

    Image 6: Overlap. Source: Simplify3D

    Warping

    It is called "warping" to buckling the layers of a piece that are in contact with the base. This buckling is common in materials such as ABS, materials with high extrusion temperatures and which tend to deform as they cool. To avoid this problem, we usually resort to:

    Hot print base

    Currently most 3D FDM printers have a hot base for printing. For materials sensitive to temperature changes, such as ABS, using a base temperature of 100 - 120 ºC is key to maintaining dimensional stability.

    Enclosed

    When a user wishes to make parts in ABS of medium or large size, using only a hot base is not enough to prevent warping. In this case the 3D printer must have an enclosed and in case you need to make large volume parts, a heated environment is recommended.

    Warping
    Image 7: Warping. Source: Simplify3D

    Gaps between the passes of the last layer

    When a poor finish of the upper layer is observed, with an aspect that conveys a feeling of lack of material it may be due to a slightly dense inner filling, with holes that are too large and difficult to cover. Another factor that produces this is an insufficient number of layers after filling, to completely cover the surface. This error may also appear due to insufficient filament flow, especially in large pieces, where continuous passes are large. To check if there is a problem of low flow, a check of external measurements is made, if these are smaller, the flow must be increased from 5 % to 5 % until the part has the design measure.

    Gaps between the passes of the last layer

    Image 8: Gaps between the passes of the last layer. Source: Simplify3D

    Conclusion

    With everything explained above, users of a 3D FDM printer should know how to solve most of the problems that can occur in the day to day of 3D printing.

    Do you want to receive articles like this in your email?

    Subscribe to our monthly newsletter and you will receive every month in your email the latest news and tips on 3D printing.

    * By registering you accept our privacy policy.

    37 Comments

    • Avatar
      Daniel rios ahumada
      mar 2, 2020

      hola, les comento ya que tengo un problema con mi impresora 3D y espero me puedan ayudar, el problema surge cuando mando a imprimir y a mitad de la impresión, la impresora se detiene y arroja como error impresión pausada, es decir, de la nada se detiene, el detalle es que en tiempo atrás ya había impreso piezas y habían salido correctamente, esto me ha pasado últimamente, sin tener respuesta alguna ni solución, cualquier información seria de gran ayuda. saludos

      • Avatar
        Filament2print
        mar 3, 2020

        Hola Daniel, Es probable que se deba a que la placa no es capaz de procesar la inforamación que recibe del BUS (sistema de comunicación SD o cable a PC). ¿Cómo se está enviando el .gcode?

      • Avatar
        Carlos Carrero
        jun 25, 2020

        Hola Daniel a mi me sucedio lo mismo en algun momento, y desarme y cambie la placa (aprovechando en poner una placa silenciadora) pero siguio igual, luego me di cuenta que era la microsd, no era compatible al parecer, y con eso solucione mi problema.

    • Avatar
      Andrés
      mar 12, 2020

      Hola, buen día, hace unas semanas compré una Ender 3 pro, con cama magnética, solo eh imprimido en PLA, funcionado bien, pero solo puedo imprimir si uso una balsa, de otro modo se despega enseguida y arruina la impresión. Cuál puede ser el problema?Si uso una balsa para imprimir, no hay problema, pero consume más PLA, además no me genera los soportes, ya nivele la cama lo mejor que pude, soy nuevo en esto de la impresión 3d, uso el crality slicer porque con el ni un diseño se adhiere

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        mar 13, 2020

        Hola Andrés.
        ¿Qué producto de adhesión estás utilizando para la base? Te aconsejamos alguno de los que disponemos en la categoría Adherencia a la base.

      • Avatar
        Veterino
        jul 9, 2020

        Hola Andrés te sugiero 1.- Primero nivelar la cama 2.-Reducir al mínimo el espacio que existe desde la cama al extrusor e imprimir la primera capa 3.- usar siempre la cama caliente esto es lo que a mi me solucionó el.problema 4.- usar una habitación que mantenga una temperatura sobre los 15 grados, al enfriarse el material se despega de la cama. 5.- Pulverizar con alguno de los materiales sugeridos la cama antes de imprimir, si no tienes donde comprar usa laca de pelo, es un spray que usan las mujeres para fijar los peinados Respecto a los soportes donde dice soportes, debes configurar: tocando la cama caliente Eso habilita los soportes Y paciencia mucha paciencia Un abrazo

    • Avatar
      Javier
      mar 24, 2020

      Buen dia! Tengo una impresora con sistema bowden, hace un tiempo que empezo a tener el mismo problema en cada impresión, cuando llega a los 5 mm de altura se tapa y ya no sale mas plastico, que puede ser?

    • Avatar
      Jair
      mar 27, 2020

      Buenos días, tengo un problema al imprimir una base en PVA (que también uso para los soportes tanto internos como externos) y después imprimir en PLA debido a que no se adhiere y al despegarse se arruina la pieza

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        may 6, 2020

        No sé si te refieres a que el problema de adhesión es entre el PVA y la base o entre el PVA y el PLA. Si el problema está está en la adherencia entre el PVA y la base puedes solucionarlo fácilmente usando algún producto para mejorar la adhesión como los que tenemos disponibles en nuestra tienda: https://filament2print.com/es/229-adherencia-base Si el problema es la adherencia entre el PVA y el PLA, la cosa es más compleja. El PVA y el PLA no tienen buena adherencia entre sí, y esta empeora a medida que el PVA se hidrata. Te recomiendo que sitúes la pieza de PLA directamente en contacto con la base y uses el PVA sólo para los soportes. Si aún así quieres imprimir una base de PVA entre la pieza de PLA y la base, asegúrate de que el filamento de PVA esté en las mejores condiciones y no haya captado humedad.

    • Avatar
      Ansufoudine BINA
      mar 28, 2020

      Bonjour, J'ai une imprimante 3D Tevo Tornado avec un buse de 0.2mm. J'ai des séparations au niveau de mes couches d'impression à certaines hauteurs (toujours aux mêmes niveaux) ce qui fait que mes impressions cassent facilement. Ce problème est présent même si j'imprime avec un hauteur de couches de 0.1 mm ou 0.15 mm inférieur à 80% du diamètre de la buse comme indiqué plus haut. J'ai nettoyé mon axe Z et mis de la graisse mais ceci ne change rien à mon problème si vous avez une idée. Je vous remercie d'avance de votre réponde et prenez soins de votre santé :)

      • Avatar
        Alexis Minault
        may 6, 2020

        salut j'ai le même problème que toi, à tu trouvé une solution ? merci !

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        may 6, 2020

        Il s'agit probablement d'un problème d'adhérence entre les couches. Pour améliorer l'adhérence entre les couches, vous pouvez essayer d'augmenter la température d'impression de 5 à 10 ºC et d'augmenter l'épaisseur de la paroi à 1 mm. Si vous utilisez de l'ABS, assurez-vous que le ventilateur de calque est éteint.

    • Avatar
      Leo
      abr 8, 2020

      estoy haciendo impresiones de mascarillas y me he dado cuenta que al hacer el relleno la impresora se me va de varas y me saca filamento de la figura dejando unas lineas verticales en los laterales de la pieza. Acabo de ponerme el cura y soy un poco inexperto con el (antes tenia el simplify y me iba todo de lujo). Sabriais decirme de algun parametro que pueda causarme este problema? Velocidad, temperatura o algo en la parte del relleno? lo tengo en modo rejilla

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        may 6, 2020

        Hola Leo, si el problema es que te imprime el relleno por fuera del perímetro, comprueba que el valor de "Porcentaje de superposición del relleno" dentro del apartado "Relleno" sea inferior a 100%. Lo habitual es usar un valor entre 10% y 50 %.

    • Avatar
      Manuel
      abr 13, 2020

      Buenos dias tengo un problema de coordinacion de tiempo de impresion con mi impresora Ender 3 Pro, actualmente estoy usando Simplify 3D para editar la impresion, el problema es que cuando preparo para imprimir el programa de dice por ejemplo 1 hora y 30 min en total....luego cuando imprimi la pieza supera las 2horas.... a que se deberaaguardo si ayuda, desde ya muchas gracias!!!!!!

    • Avatar
      Luis
      abr 14, 2020

      Buenas tardes, estoy haciendo viseras para pantallas, al principio me salieron muchas bien, ahora no me salen verticales( se inclinan), por lo cual son inservibles. La regule y no mejora. Espero vuestra respuesta com prisa por ayudar. Muchísimas gracias. P.D: las estoy regalando a los hospitales, personas de riesgo...etc.

    • Avatar
      DeepRed82 Art Gallery
      abr 16, 2020

      Hola, me estoy iniciando en esto de la impresión 3d con una geeetech I3 pro w y aunque está calibrada (o eso creo) cuando le doy a imprimir, se me va a media altura y empieza a imprimir la pieza en el aire, a unos 15 cm de la cama ¿En qué estoy metiendo la pata?

      • Avatar
        Marcelo Cabello
        may 3, 2020

        Podría ser que en el slicer estás colocando la pieza girandola a horizontal pero no le ordenado después que haga un lay-down o descansar sobre la base y entonces no empieza pegado a la base

    • Avatar
      SCO
      abr 16, 2020

      Hola tengo una ender 3 pro y cuando imprimo no hace la pieza completa en el eje Z, la impresora da por terminado el trabajo pero falta por terminar me da la impresion que el eje z se queda estancado en cierto momento aunque si lo pruebo solo moviendo el eje Z sube lo que corresponde. PD: estoy haciendo viseras para mascarillas.

    • Avatar
      Rodrigo
      abr 26, 2020

      Hola estoy teniendo problemas con la impresion de las primeras capas salen como con ciertos relieves esto empezo a ocurrir desde que cambie mis pololus a unos drv8825 con una ramps 1.6 sera que regule algo mal? Saludos y gracias!

    • Avatar
      Gerson
      abr 27, 2020

      Hola tengo un problema con mi Ender 3 pro, quiero hacer mascarillas pero tengo 2 graves problemas. 1. El objeto cuando lo veo en Cura se ve bien, pero cuando imprime no se ve igual que en cura. 2. Ese mismo objeto cuando se imprime, el relleno no toca las paredes. Ya calibre los 4 puntos de la cama, la temperatura es de 60 - 70°c y de la boquilla a 205°c, Ya corregí los steps/mm para que se mueve y saque de filamento PLA lo que digo. Moví un montón de parámetros y sigue igual, yo moví el overlap que se lo subi a 100% y sigue igual. la verdad ya no se que hacer, p

    • Avatar
      Melina
      may 10, 2020

      Buenos días tengo una impresora Prusa i3 prob y no puedo hacer que arranque la impresora esta todo bien conectado pero al momento de encenderla no arrancan la luces de procesamiento de la placa madre.

    • Avatar
      Ezequiel
      may 20, 2020

      Tengo una Ender 3 pro, mi problema es que cuando hace la línea de testeo y la finaliza para hacer el viaje al centro de la cama esa línea no la corta como antes y me la arrastra hasta el borde de la pieza eso hace que se me haga una pelota de filamento en la boquilla, estoy imprimiendo ptge y probe con distintos rollos y me hace lo mismo, la cama esta bien nivelada. termine de hacer una pieza y quise repetir y ahí empezó el problema, cambié el tubo de ptfe y me sigue haciendo lo mismo ya hice miles de pruebas y sigo igual con la máquina ya no se que más hacer si alguien me puede orientar para solucionar ese problema.gracias!!!

    • Avatar
      Juan
      jun 15, 2020

      Hola tengo el problema con la impresora 3d dream maker que el error que aparece es interruptor atascado detenido

    • Avatar
      Carlos
      jul 5, 2020

      Hola estoy intentando imprimir filaflex de recreus 82A en una Artillery X1 que es de extrusión directa y lleva un volcano, el problema es que en la pieza sale con porosidad y por mucho que lo intento secar el filamento con una Ebox no lo consigo y necesito que la pieza sea estanca, he probado con varias temperaturas y velocidades y nada, algun consejo gracias

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        jul 27, 2020

        Buenos días Carlos. En primer lugar comprueba que la tensión del tornillo del extrusor sea la correcta. Tanto si la tensión es demasiado alta como demasiado baja, se pueden producir problemas de extrusión con filamentos flexibles. Una vez tengas la tensión correcta, fija el flow de tu impresora entre un 110 % y 120 %.

    • Avatar
      Jorge Cuesta
      jul 22, 2020

      Hola, tengo Anet A6 y A8. En ambas se me atasca el hotend de un modo tal que no puedo retirar el filamento. Qué puede ser?

      • Avatar
        Filament2Print
        jul 27, 2020

        Buenos días Jorge, Tanto la Anet A6 como la A8 usan extrusor directo, así que lo primero que deberías comprobar el que distancia de retracción tienes configurada. Debería estar entre 0.5 y 1.5 mm. Si es superior a 1.5 mm prueba a bajarla hasta 0.8 mm.

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      Cristian orjuela
      jul 24, 2020

      Hola buenos días, tengo un problema y quisiera saber si me pueden ayudar, tengo una ender3 Y estoy imprimiendo unas piezas pero en la última capa me deja el punto de la boquilla marcada cada vez que termina una línea Y la figura me queda llena de puntos o arrastra La boquilla y me deja marcas en las piezas, Si me pueden ayudar se los agradezco

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        Filament2Print
        jul 27, 2020

        Buenos días Cristian, En primer lugar, asegúrate de que tienes las retracciones activadas y correctamente configuradas. Si es así, prueba a activar las funciones "Retracción en el cambio de capa" y "Salto en Z en la retracción" en tu software de laminado.

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      Juan B
      jul 24, 2020

      Hola. Gracias por vuestra atención. El caso es que no hace ni seis meses que me propuse aprender a imprimir. He ido mejorando e investigando (en este punto vuestro blog me ha aclarado muchos puntos) pero hay un problema que no se cómo denominar y por tanto no se cómo encontrar la solución. Las capas verticales, empiezo a dominarlas y no me dan problemas, pero las horizontales, algunas, no da relleno suficiente y se ve el borde del filamento. Creo que es algo de configuración, por favor ¿me podéis identificar el problema y darme pistas para solucionarlo? Gracias de nuevo, un saludo. https://subefotos.com/ver/?76e4b2a22663f6708d819db0b96b11efo.jpg

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        Filament2Print
        jul 27, 2020

        Buenos días Juan, Una solución para minimizar esos huecos que aparecen entre capas es aumentar el número de perímetros y reducir la altura de capa. Reduciendo la altura de capa conseguirás transiciones más suaves en superficies complejas como las de tu pieza y con un mayor espesor de pared reducirás la aparición de esos huecos.

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      Jorge
      jul 26, 2020

      Hola! Yo tengo el problema de los hilos (a un nivel exageradísimo), pero no es la retracción (toqué mil parámetros y nada..) al final hice un test para ver si imprimía lo que tenía que imprimir (midiendo la extrusión del filamento) e imprime más de lo que debe... esto ha sido justo después de cambiar unas piezas del extrusor.. (la rosca dentada es más pequeña) tiene lógica pero... como puedo solucionarlo? Saludos y gracias de antemano!

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        Filament2Print
        jul 27, 2020

        Buenos días Jorge, Para solucionar el problema debes calibrar el flujo de tu impresora. Puedes echar un ojo a este post en el que explicamos como hacerlo paso a paso: https://filament2print.com/es/blog/33_flow-impresion-3d.html

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      José Antonio Fideu
      jul 31, 2020

      Hola, tengo un problema con mi Ender 3 y quizás ustedes puedan ayudarme. Espero que sí. Desde hace meses comienza mprímiendo bien, pero pasado un tiempo, o cierto número de capas (un cm de altura o si, depende de la pieza) comienza a fallar. Deja huecos hasta que el plástico deja de fluir correctamente. Espero que me puedan orientar porque empiezo a estar un poco desesperado. Mil gracias por anticipado.

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